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Looking rather like a sea-horse trying to escape a crowd of impudent lesser islands chasing it from the NW, the mountainous spine of Amorgos acts as the final Cycladic curtain, separating the Cyclades from the Dodecanese. A switchback road runs from one end to the other, with a single branch linking the main port (Katapola) with Chora, the island capital perched 1000 or so feet up. This is one of the most enchanting of the blindingly white villages which give the Cyclades its popular image. Its narrow alleyways are lined with cottages, shops, bars and restaurants whose tables half block the mini-squares. Just below the Chora’s southern flank is Hozoviotissa, the Hanging Monastery - so called not because they hang monks there but because the building clings even more precariously to the rock-face than the village. The road SW from the Chora leads gradually down to a few bays and beaches opposite the islet of Gramvoussa, served by excursion caiques in summer. The road to the NW, however, leads to the more rewarding area (and better beaches) of Aegiali Bay, the island’s second port overlooking which are the three exquisite old villages of Langada, Potamos and Tholaria. The long beach of Aegiali itself, flanking the port, goes on for ever, and offers some laid-back accommodation along its edge. The island is wonderful for walking – challenging along the spine, picturesque between the villages in the north. Amorgos has no airport and is served by traditional ferries and fast catamarans from Piraeus, as well as by the extremely traditional Skopelitis from Naxos. It is easy to combine Amorgos with any other of the Lesser Cyclades – Donoussa, Koufonissia, Schoinoussa or Iraklia as well as its mother island, Naxos.
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