So Halki harbour clings desperately to the side of the escarpment, catching every drop of Greek sunshine from dawn till dusk and is just wide enough to support a whole platoon of tavernas and bars from which you can watch what movement there is into and out of the harbour –visiting yachts as well as the local ferry and the occasional hydrofoil, not to mention local excursion caiques which offer trips to nearby uninhabited Alimia island or to remote coves on the Tilos side of the SGR.

The pastel-washed houses rising steeply behind the water-front make a colourful backdrop for any amateur painter within reach; and many of those houses have been renovated and are let out by tour operators. On the southern tip of the harbour is the Hiona Art Hotel, alias the tired old Hotel Halki now dressed up like Cinderella on her way to the ball, whose roof terrace offers the artist (see above) the chance to paint his picture from a sun-drenched chaise-longue with attendants to bring him a G&T to rinse his paint-brush in.

Ten minutes on foot from the harbour is the island’s main beach, with the statutory taverna overhanging it on the far side: this is the default location for every visitor from mid-morning until sunset. The adventurous traveller has one other option: to continue up the very steep track to the ancient acropolis, now just a ruin with a stunning view across to Rhodes.

Halki may be combined easily with Rhodes or Symi and, with some attention to boat schedules, with Tilos.