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Kythnos is every bit as rewarding as Kea – and probably a bit busier. Its crowning glory in our view is the chora which stands quite high up in the hills with gorgeous views down to the west and NE coasts. It is a real Cycladic village with narrow streets, a few tiny squares surprisingly well stocked with tavernas and bars, making it the fun place to stay. Beyond to the north the road drops down to the coastal resort of Loutra – that’s Greek for baths and therefore you should not be surprised to find the odd stream of thermal water running down the gutter or the odd stream of old ladies from Athens who, having taken the waters medicinally, make their way rather more slowly down to the harbour-front for refreshments of a different kind, served by waiters who seem to have majored in Athenian off-handedness: just to make the ladies feel at home? Going south, the road drops to the island’s port of Merichas; not memorably picturesque perhaps, but it has some life, plenty of bars and cafes and the island’s bus routes all start here. Kythnos boasts 50 good beaches, 30 accessible by scooter and the rest presumably by parachute. High and overlooking the east coast is the enchanting old capital of Driopis, well worth exploring, and, a bit further south, the surprisingly modern seaside resort of Kanala. The road continues to the southern tip, giving glimpses of tempting small bays and beaches, mostly undeveloped as yet. Using the ferries a stay on Kythnos can easily be combined with Kea, Serifos and Sifnos.
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