You will arrive at the port of Kamares on the west coast, where there is a wide sand beach and plenty of harbour-front life, but otherwise it’s a less desirable place than the many alternatives. The island has a splendid bus system serving virtually every community and with the main routes running till late so that you can take a beach-side dinner and still get home (or an inland dinner and still get home to your beach-side room); so car hire is for the most part money wasted. These buses fan out from the gloriously sited capital, Apollonia which, with a handful of other villages, houses the vast majority of the residents. It is an airy spot with lovely views of the mountainous interior as well as a stunning panorama over the east coast across to Paros and other islands on a clear day.

The islanders are welcoming and resourceful and arrange regular walking trips for visitors. For wonderful days by the beach there is a wide choice mostly round the southern quarter of the island – starting with Faros and Apokofto in the SE, then the amazing long sweep of Platis Gialos and finally in the west the smaller Fikiada and the breathtaking horseshoe-shaped Vathi. If that’s not enough, you can visit the atmospheric fishing village of Hersonisos on the northern tip or the remarkable Kastro, a blindingly white fortified coastal village of narrow paved streets on the east coast.

Sifnos may easily be combined with a stay on Serifos and, with careful perusal of the ferry schedules, perhaps Folegandros.